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Miniature Garden Basics
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Gardening in Miniature: Introduction
There
is something wonderful happening in the gardening world these days.
Horticulturalists are growing small. The number of new dwarf and
miniature trees, shrubs and slow-growing ground covers that are being
cultivated recently, are allowing miniaturists from across the country
to get outside and play. They are not just young plants with small
leaves, nor are they just rooted branches off a tree, but true
miniatures able to stand up to the critical eye of the most discerning
miniaturist.
Miniature
gardening tends to be a broad term in the horticultural world for using
small plants within a regular garden. For the hard-core miniaturist,
this is not enough. For our purposes, miniature gardening is literately
a garden in a miniature scale that replicates the real world, with
scale being a major consideration - just as it is with our dollhouses,
scene-boxes and dioramas. We want a full garden too, with landscaping,
patios, furniture and a complete line of garden accessories and tools.
Now we can have exactly that - and more. Anything is possible in
miniature, as we all know, but a miniature garden that is alive,
growing, to scale, that we can build on and play with? Read on, the
only limit is your imagination.
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Gardening Basics
All
plants need light, air and water, the question is, how much of each?
"Right plant, right place" is the official gardening rule. Whether your
miniature garden is in a pot or in the ground, the basics still apply.
Light
Light
requirements of any plant are important for the plant's survival.
Choose where your miniature garden will be placed or planted - then
choose the plants that fit that place. A tree that needs full sun will
not do well in complete shade and vice versa. Part shade means a
maximum two to three hours of cool sun (morning sun) or dappled shade
under a large tree. Part sun means four to six hours of direct sun.
Full sun is six hours or more of direct sun.
In general, the south and west facing areas are full sun, the east
facing is part sun and the north is shade. Other factors, like big
trees shading the yard are a consideration too. Take a look at the list below:
SUN CHART:
Part shade - is 2 to 4 hours of cool sun.
Full shade - is less than 2 hours of sun.
Dappled shade - is called light shade or part shade.
Part sun - is 4 to 6 hours of sun.
Full sun - is 6 or more hours of sun.
"Cool sun" - is morning sun before 11am or after 3pm, or in the winter.
"Hot sun" - is from about 2pm to 7pm in the summertime.
Most
gardeners have their
own definitions of what constitutes what. The
above list is from our point of view here in the Pacific Northwest
which is a more temperate climate than our fellow miniature gardeners
in Minnesota or further northeast, where the climate changes are more
extreme throughout
the year. Pay attention to the hardiness of the trees listed, you can
get away with a more tender tree by giving it shelter in the
winter - on a covered porch, in the garage or under a cloche at night.
To know what is best for your climate, ask a fellow gardener or
call the nursery or garden center closest to you for more information
on your local weather conditions - we can help with this too, but it's
always good to check with
someone who knows and grows in your own climate.
Air (Temperature)
Plants
in containers are more susceptible to cold temperatures than those
planted right in the ground. Choose plants that are hardy to the
coldest winter temperature for your area. If you know it's going to be
particularly cold one evening, wrap your container in an old blanket or
heavy plastic to keep it insulated and/or cover the whole garden with a
plastic bag overnight. Make sure to take off the wrap during the day to
let the garden get some fresh air.
For
in-ground gardens, fall is the best time to plant. As long as the
ground isn't frozen, you can go ahead and plant your trees and shrubs.
By planting at this time of year, the new trees and shrubs will be
watered in with the rains in the fall and will go dormant along with
the rest of the garden come wintertime. When the weather starts to warm
up in the spring, your trees and shrubs will already be "home" and the
spring rains will help them get watered in. They'll be in a perfect
position as the roots have already situated themselves in the earth -
and they will need less maintenance throughout the summer too.
If
your timing is no where near autumn please don't let this deter you.
You can plant just about anytime of year, really - just be wary of
extreme weather conditions and adjust for it. If your in the middle of
a dry spell, you'll have to provide the water. You may want to add some
compost or peat moss to help the soil retain moisture. If the weather
has been really wet, make sure where your planting has good drainage or
raise the bed if you can. Gardening is not an exact science, it's more
of an intuitive one: there are ways around everything, you just have to
figure it out - which is half the fun.

Water
For
in-ground gardens, water attentively for the first season to help the
plants adjust to their new home. Planting in spring or fall is helpful
as the rains will aid in the watering, but check to make sure the rain
water is reaching the roots by poking your finger a good two or three
inches into the soil - it should be damp at least three inches down.
All
containers should have a drainage hole or two, depending on the size of
the container. Rocks or gravel in the bottom of the pot are not
necessary, although some insist - but where there are rocks there could
be soil. Water your garden thoroughly every so often by watering until it
comes out the holes in the bottom of the pot. Do this every couple of
weeks in the hot summer, in late afternoon or early morning so the heat
of the summer day won't evaporate the water.
Aerate
the soil every month or two to keep it from compacting, so the water
can get through to the roots. Use a kitchen fork or a rod to poke a
couple of inches down while churning up the surface soil where it is
compacted.
For
feeding your garden, a light application of time-release fertilizer
during the active growth periods is best for both containers and in
ground gardens. Less is better than too much - follow the directions
carefully.
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Designing your Miniature Garden
Miniature
garden design follows the same structure as life-sized gardens without
the backache. Think of layers: tall plants in the back of the garden,
medium height in front of the tall plants and ground covers for the
lowest layer at the front of the garden bed.
If
you are planting in a container, take the shape and size of the
container into consideration. Tall pots need a tall tree for balance,
then go down from there with a miniature shrub for the middle layer and
ground covers for the lowest layer. Low bowls are fun to play with as
they can either take height or not. A series of low shrubs and
ground covers may just lend itself to an even tinier garden scene of
1/4" scale.
When
working in your garden bed, think of what is going on behind your
future miniature garden. Some regular sized leaves and foliage can take
on a tropical look when a miniature tree is placed next to it.
Alternatively, create your own backdrop by blocking in the back part of
the garden with a row of miniature trees or a mini fence to denote the
garden edge. Have fun by creating paths through the garden that connect
different patio areas that are tucked underneath leggy perennials or
taller plants.
Start
with your larger trees to anchor or define the corners of your
miniature garden area, then "fill in" with the smaller shrubs. As you
do this, you can decide how big the beds are and where the patio or
paths are going to be. Play around with the plants while they are still
in their containers to get a feel for the different scenarios you can
create. When you are finished planning, you can tap the pots off the
plants, loosen the roots, put them in at soil level and gently tuck the
soil around the root ball so there are no air pockets underneath the
plant. Carve your garden bed out by picturing where the edge of the
patio will come to. Use small pieces of rock or broken tile for the
patio. See our store for more patio options.
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Using your Dollhouse Miniatures in the Garden
Choosing
what to put in among the multitude of miniatures out there follows the
golden rule for realism: would you do that in real-life? If it doesn't
belong in the garden in our world, why put it in a miniature garden and
expect it to look right? There are plenty of dollhouse accessories that
can fit well into a garden setting without having to resort to those
that don't really belong. Have fun with it and see how the figure or
ornament can quickly change the personality of your garden.
The
size of ornament will ultimately dictate your desired scale. The larger
the figure, the smaller the garden will seem; the smaller the figure,
the larger the garden will seem. Try out different scaled accessories
and see it dramatically change the "size" of the garden.
Keep
in mind when choosing an ornament that weather is a major factor. With
any miniature garden ornament, if you can't afford to lose it, don't
use it. Along with the weather, there are the other things that may
happen without you knowing it: squirrels foraging, dogs playing, cats
fighting and even your four-year-old grandson playing Godzilla, can
wreak havoc on the best of intentions.
Anything
resin weathers well and can be brought in for a good scrub when dirty. There are
a variety of resin garden benches
available which suit a more formal
setting, curved or straight, in 1" or 1/2" scale. The "Take a Seat "
resin patio or wicker chairs work very well. Figures such as St.
Francis of Assisi or goddesses come in resin and can be crazy-glued to
a pedestal for a more dramatic presence. Garden Gnomes, Buddha or a
Madonna - there are lots to choose from. If you're not sure whether the
colors will hold up in the sun, you can use an acrylic UV spray which
will protect strong colors from fading.
Metal
is great in the garden but will eventually age and rust which can blend
well with your garden as it ages and grows. If you find you don't want
the rusted look, sand down all the rust spots until the rust is
completely gone, paint it with a metal sealant and then a varathane or
rust paint; think garden colors when choosing though, like black,
hunter green or white. This may have to be done annually. Rust is a
fungus and once something is rusted, it's hard to get rid of it
completely.
Wood
is always a favorite in any garden, but use with care. If you love your
antique wooden table and chair set, only put it out for special
occasions when it is dry outside, or when you are out enjoying the
garden. The humidity, be it warm or cold, and the sun will put any wood
finish to the test and will warp the wood.
Keep
your ornament in its place by staking it. Drill into the bottom of your
ornament carefully by using a drill or a dremel with the right sized
bit that will fit your stake/rod. Wear a face shield and leather gloves
as any accident, however small, isn't worth damaging yourself.
The drilling is relatively easy with the resin and wood accessories -
the cast metal is a
bit more challenging. Choose a spot to drill a hole in the bottom of
the bench or figure, where the resin is solid for at least a 1/4"
depth. Drill at a right angle to the bottom of the piece. Using
two-part epoxy and a small metal rod (a coat hanger works
well), glue in the rod at a 90° angle to the base of the
ornament. Set in styrofoam to hold it at the right angle while it
dries. You can easily remove the stake with a pair of pliers if need be.
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Change your personality - instantly!
You can completely change your miniature garden scene by
just changing the accessories. It's a quick way to transform it for any
occasion - for house guests, for parties or meetings - you can
personalize it for anybody or anything! By swapping a garden gnome for
a goddess sculpture you can formalize your miniature garden in seconds,
or vice versa. It's fun, it's no work at all - it's just one of
the joys of miniature gardening.
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Indoor vs. Outdoor Plants

Just
a word about indoor plants versus outdoor plants. Indoor plants are,
for the most part, tropical plants that want to stay above 60°F
all year round. In general, if you bring an outdoor plant inside, it
will think it is the summer growing season all the time and grow itself
to death. The dry air from indoor heating puts unwanted stress on an
outdoor plant that prefers a cool, humid environment. Plant stress weakens
the defense system and leaves the plant open to pest and diseases.
Your
outdoor miniature garden can be brought inside for a day or three at a
time but should be placed outside to rest and watered thoroughly until
it drains out of the bottom. The time spent outside should be greater
than the time the garden spends inside. The soil should remain moist,
not damp, and the plants should be misted almost daily. Avoid direct
sunlight when it is inside, as it may scorch the plants. Never move a
garden from a warm room to the frosty outdoors, or from a shaded room
to full, hot sun without first staging it. Stage your miniature garden in the garage or on a
covered porch for a least a couple of days, to help it adapt and avoid
extreme climate changes. Use this method for bringing your garden inside or outside.
There
are some plants that can be used inside, we recommend
the boxwood trees for indoors. They are very tolerant of the indoor
heat during the winter months and are low maintenance - meaning that
they
don't require constant moisture to stay alive. In the above
picture, we used Golden Baby's Breath ( Soleirolia soleirolii) on the
left and a Dwarf Mondo Grass (Liriope or Ophipogon) on the right. Both
of these ground covers match the light and water requirements of the
boxwood tree and are tolerant of indoor conditions - bright, indirect
light and regular water.
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Where to find it
Some
reputable nurseries carry the miniature trees and shrubs and usually
have a nice selection of ground covers. Go to the more established
nursery and garden centers, as they tend to be more attentive in
offering plants that are hardy to your region. Be selective when buying
the trees as some look like the grower cut off a branch from a
life-sized tree and stuck it in a pot. The tree or shrub should look
like a miniature version of a life-sized one. Here at Two Green Thumbs, we carry miniature and dwarf
trees all year 'round, while the bigger nurseries tend to only get a
small selection once a year. Check our store for what's in stock now - and check back throughout the year for new arrivals too!
Garden
accessories can be found at your local dollhouse store. Just think
"garden" next time you visit and you will notice how many things you
can use. Our store is fully stocked with weather-friendly miniatures -
most are able to hold up to the rain and sun, and they are staked on a
metal rod to hold their place in the garden bed or container. We have
exclusives too, that you won't find anywhere else.
Tile
pieces, stones and rock fragments for paths and patios can be found at
customer-friendly quarries or salvage shops. Craft stores and nurseries
usually carry a selection of garden rocks that can easily turn into
cobblestones. You can break up a tile square with a hammer, chisel and
face mask (be careful of the flying fragments). Check out our store for
tiny, colored gravel and a nice variety of patio material.
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Now you are ready to get started
Don't
be afraid to make mistakes. If a plant is not working out well, see it
as an excuse to try something different. Plants are plentiful and can
be replaced easily - if not by the same, then maybe by another plant
more suitable to your miniature environment. Stick with it, have
fun and get your fork out to do the raking!
For more information or to reach Janit Calvo, please email: info@TwoGreenThumbs.com.
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